Cameras: Light meter:
Nikon F with Ftn finder.
Nikon F2 Sb. Pentax Digital Spot.
Nikon F3. Weston Euromaster with cone.
Nikon F4/s
Nikon FM2n
Nikon D200
Nikon D800
Nikon Df – one of the most enjoyable digital cameras I have ever used.
Nikon 35Ti.
Bronica S2a.
Yashicamat 124G.
Fuji Xpro-1
Lenses & Miscellaneous gear:
Various Nikkor / Tokina lenses ~ Ai, Ais & AF: from 20mm to 200mm for 35mm cameras.
Nikkor 50, 90 & 200mm for the Bronica.
Monopod & Uniloc tripod.
Billingham bags, because they last a long time with the minimum of care.
Darkroom:
Durst M605. Meopter Magnifax.
Schneider componon S 80mm / Nikon 50mm enlarging lenses.
RH Designs Analyser Pro & Paper flasher unit.
Nova washmaster 12×16 5 slot paper washer.
Nova 16 x 12 Slot print processor.
Jobo CPE2 print/film processor.
Way Beyond Monochrome 2 Ralph Lambrecht & Chris Woodhouse. This is probably the best book I own.
Ansel Adams – The Camera, Negative & Print. Should be read at least once by all B&W film photographers (I will probably get shot for saying that these days) But fashions change knowledge doesn’t.
All collected over several years or as gifts.
The other stuff:
Photoshop Cs6 & Lightroom along with a Canon F9950 & Plustek S7600i with Vuescan / Silverfast software.
Film & chemicals are as needed, although these days I tend to mix my own developers from dry ingredient, pre-mixed is now almost impossible to find in Oman.
Paper is mostly Ilford both Fibre & Resin Coated.
David A Lockwood 
The just noticed the reference to the Ansel Adams Trilogy. I have them also and still refer to them even though I haven’t shot film in years. Examples is also worth a read.
🙂 Got that as well.
Hi David:
I noticed your comment about the Df being one of the most enjoyable digital cameras you’ve ever used. I have two Dfs and they are practically all I shoot with anymore. I’ve heard a lot of whining about the body being too small with some of the newer zoom lenses–the 24-70 f2.8 for instance. I’ve used one of my Dfs with my 300mm f4 with no problem and my 24-70 lives on one of them.
Oh yeah, I also really like your work!
Thank you for visiting and your kind comment about my work.
I am enjoying exploring your site and yes the df is a great camera, especially with my older film lenses. It feels like my Fm2n so size was never a problem although I do forget once in a while to dial in the f stop when using non Ai lenses 🙄
Interesting read David – I use a D750 for the day job (property) because of the low light capability and tilt screen, My D800 has just been replaced with a D850 and I have so many film cameras now I have started a shop on ETSY called Back2Film to sell some on. I think the D800 is likely to turn in to a Nikon Df. I have also toyed with Fuji using an XT-10 which is great for architecture. Interestingly just got a M42 and M39 Nikon F convertor so I can use some older glass on my modern kit, which could be fun. If I was to pinch any of your cameras – it would likely be the FM2n or the Df.
The df for me is the perfect digital choice, its low light capabilities and being able to use just about any Nikkor lens produced gives it the edge over others. As for film, yes I like the Fm2n for its simplicity but like the df, my choice would be the F4. I have even used it with the new retrograde nikkors that don’t have the aperture
ring.
Hi David,
Any advice for someone who just started using film?
Many thanks,
Pamela
Hello Pamela,
You did ask………….. 🙂 sorry if it’s not what you are looking for.
Ha……. Welcome to the world of film,
Have a look at these people for supplies – http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/
Get them to send you a catalogue as it’s easier than looking at their site; they have everything you could need. Helpful with advise if you phone as well…….
I should start this with a lot of questions before giving advise: but you are there & I am here 🙂
If you only intend to scan it is very easy starting (although the scanning bit I find a challenge) but that’s just me. It can all be done in the kitchen sink so to say.
Colour print is no more difficult than doing B&W just shorter times & hotter temperatures.
Buy a big changing bag you will not regret it & Patterson film tanks they load well and will lasts forever (just do not put “Photo Flow” anywhere near them as it will leave a deposit on the reel that makes the film stick when loading films.
Start with colour print film as it is very exposure tolerant and can be processed in a local lab without getting prints done: you can keep the colour or convert using the now free Nik software. https://www.google.com/nikcollection/
B&W film does not scan well but Vuescan does a better job than most others & it is cheap https://www.hamrick.com/
Get the best film flatbed scanner you can afford because it will allow 35mm, 6×6, & 5×4.
Setting up a dark room is a whole lot of fun but can be expensive if you are not experienced enough: find a local one that you could use until you find what equipment is best for your own requirements.
Ho and with B&W film expose for the shadows…….. !!! which is not what you do with your digital camera. Otherwise you will not get those lovely tones I see in your work.
Visit the library and borrow:
Master printing course . Tim Rudman. ISBN 1 85732 407 2
Creative Elements Landscape photography – darkroom techniques. Eddie Ephraums.
ISBN 0-9510147-9-X now out of print but can still be found.
He has another book called Gradient light: but it is not worth getting when compared with the one above.
David.
This so more helpful than my initial question. I have been enjoying film so much more than digital. Thank you also for tips on the exposure for black and white film. I will definitely look into all the above. Many thanks, Pamela