Bronica S2a with Nikkor P 75mm f2.8 lens on Ilford HP5plus @ Iso 320.
Tag: Bronica S2a
Pool – Wadi Bani Habib.
Pods.
Tree & rushes – diffused.
Dying flower.
Tree root detail.
Date Palms.
Tree trunk detail.
Wadi Abyad.
Rocks.
Wadi Al Arbaeen.
Continuing my search through old files – this one from Wadi Arbaeen, Wadi Al Arbeieen, Wadi Arbeen or any other transliteration you might come across 🙂
Bronica S2a with Nikkor-P 75mm f2.8 & Fuji 100rvp.
This Wadi has been hit by several bad storms in recent years, but is still a good area for camping and walking (trekking) there is always an abundance of water in the upper reaches.
Image was last posted some time in 2013 but made a couple of years before that – when I was able to get plenty of 6×6 colour film and more importantly, chemicals !!!
Leaf against palm No2.
Leaf against palm trunk.
Stepping stones.
Wadi Pool.
Testing old film.
Busy day checking some old Ilford HP5 plus, which has been in the freezer for at least 10 years.
Used a ‘two bath’ development formula from The Film developing Cookbook – Anchell/Troop:
The negative was scanned and inverted in P/S then a selenium brown tone added – nearest colour I can get to the Kodak brown I use in the darkroom. Other than that, not much else done with the image. As I have about 20 6×6 rolls, I can now quite confidently use it with just a slight reduction in my normal speed of ISO 320.
Leitz formula:-
To make 1 litre.
Bath A.
Metol 5 grams.
Sodium Sulphite anhydrous 100 grams.
Bath B.
Sodium Carbonate anhydrous 15 grams.
Sodium Sulphite anhydrous 6 grams,
Each bath made by adding chemicals into 2/3 of the water in the order written (add pinch of the Sodium Sulphite with Metol because on its own it will not easily dissolve) top up, making 1 litre. Store in brown litre bottles and as long as bath A is not contaminated with B, both should do at least 15 35/6×6 films.
Do not ‘pre-soak’ film before development; other than that, it is 3 to 4 mins @ 20deg.C with constant agitation (adjust for desired density) in A. Drain but don’t rinse, add bath B and again agitate as before, drain, stop, fix & wash……… Print or scan – whichever is your preferred method.
I have some base fog (age of film most likely) which is no real problem, but I may try adding Potassium Bromide (10ml of 10% solution) to bath A.
As you can see the negative has a good range and scanned with the minimum of correction. Which is why I used the two bath method, it is almost fool-proof in that it uses the same time for most films and speeds.
All this can be done with the minimum of equipment: no excuse if anyone wanted to try film and thought they couldn’t because they do not have the necessary darkroom & enlarger.